driver's door (almost) won't open from inside
#1
driver's door (almost) won't open from inside
For a while now, I've had to pull 3 or 4 times to get the driver's door (2002) open from the inside. I'm in the US, so that's the left door, not that I s'pose it matters. Anyway, today it took about 20 pulls , so it's time to fix it.
Today I took the panel off and got inside. Seems like the Bowden cable must be stretching, or the end of it is slipping off, making the cable is a bit too long/loose to operate correctly. Not sure if my diagnosis is right or not, just my amateur guess.
The working bits I need to get to are pretty hard to reach from inside. Do I now remove the latch assembly (3 Allen bolts) from the door jamb? I hesitate to do it without asking expert advise, 'cause I may get myself in trouble getting it back together, alignment issues, who knows what???
Many thanks in advance.
Today I took the panel off and got inside. Seems like the Bowden cable must be stretching, or the end of it is slipping off, making the cable is a bit too long/loose to operate correctly. Not sure if my diagnosis is right or not, just my amateur guess.
The working bits I need to get to are pretty hard to reach from inside. Do I now remove the latch assembly (3 Allen bolts) from the door jamb? I hesitate to do it without asking expert advise, 'cause I may get myself in trouble getting it back together, alignment issues, who knows what???
Many thanks in advance.
#3
Drivers Door closed permanently.
Hi all. Newbie here. I have been searching through forums from all over the world on BMW Mini Coopers only to find that, quite a lot of people have the same issue with Mini's and the door lock.Unfortunately, no one offered a solution as to " How to get the panel off" with the door closed. Well, I can give some light on that particular point. It can be removed but, with some difficulty. First of all, remove the drivers seat. Its a simple task with only 4 x size 40 torque bolts and depending on the spec of your Mini it may 2 x electrical connectors or possibly 3.
Slide the seat back as far as it will go on the runner and remove the front torque/torx bolts (Depending in which country you reside) next, slide the seat forward and remove the rear bolts.
Tip the seat to the rear and unclip the 2 or 3 electrical clips. Lift the seat clear. I just left mine on the back seat for easier re assembly....
Next. remove the 3 visible torx bolts on the drivers panel. There's a 4th bolt hidden behind the little reflector on the door. Remove this by using a terminal screwdriver. Roll the drivers window all the way down. Next, use a clip removing tool, its like a flat headed screw driver with a "V" grove down the middle.Place the tool just under the drivers panel at the top, reverse the tool so the curve is facing away from you. Gently, insert it under the panel and push forward clear of the retaining clips. Carry this out along the length of the door. The panel can now be removed from the inside by pulling gently on the arm rest. It gets tight near the dash but, it will come clear.
Once removed you will have access to the door actuator. I had help from my daughter to operate both the internal lever and external. I could then see what was happening with the lock mechanism. In my case, it was functioning but, I didn't think it was going all the way down. I removed the inner cable from the actuator assembly and inserted a long screwdriver into the latch. With very little effort, the latch moved fully down and the drivers door was finally opened. I have now ordered up a spare Bowden Cable as the original was obviously stretched.
Its easier to remove the actuator unit as a whole and fit the new Bowden cable. I hope this description helps others with the same door lock issue.
Slide the seat back as far as it will go on the runner and remove the front torque/torx bolts (Depending in which country you reside) next, slide the seat forward and remove the rear bolts.
Tip the seat to the rear and unclip the 2 or 3 electrical clips. Lift the seat clear. I just left mine on the back seat for easier re assembly....
Next. remove the 3 visible torx bolts on the drivers panel. There's a 4th bolt hidden behind the little reflector on the door. Remove this by using a terminal screwdriver. Roll the drivers window all the way down. Next, use a clip removing tool, its like a flat headed screw driver with a "V" grove down the middle.Place the tool just under the drivers panel at the top, reverse the tool so the curve is facing away from you. Gently, insert it under the panel and push forward clear of the retaining clips. Carry this out along the length of the door. The panel can now be removed from the inside by pulling gently on the arm rest. It gets tight near the dash but, it will come clear.
Once removed you will have access to the door actuator. I had help from my daughter to operate both the internal lever and external. I could then see what was happening with the lock mechanism. In my case, it was functioning but, I didn't think it was going all the way down. I removed the inner cable from the actuator assembly and inserted a long screwdriver into the latch. With very little effort, the latch moved fully down and the drivers door was finally opened. I have now ordered up a spare Bowden Cable as the original was obviously stretched.
Its easier to remove the actuator unit as a whole and fit the new Bowden cable. I hope this description helps others with the same door lock issue.
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chris2005mini
2002-2006 Mini Cooper (R50)
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12-20-2011 08:53 PM