daruxton |
10-21-2009 11:31 PM |
Holy ****, it actually worked! I drove my car tonight for the first time since February! It looks like I've still got a bunch of goofy electrical crap going on though. Some of it has a bad ground feedback problem feel to it, and some a low battery voltage feel. I did check the battery though and it's charged to a good strong 13 volts.
So on the first test drive, here's what I ran into: first of all, headlights with very intermittent / crappy operation. They kept flicking on and off, sometimes staying off. Eventually after about 20 mins of driving, they stayed on. Also the leveling motor needs to be recalibrated. I suppose the dealer needs to do this?
Alternator / battery warning light on. The really messed up thing here is that as soon as I shift into reverse (6spd MT), this light goes out. Sometimes it also kills the headlights. This is where it kinda feels like a wierd bad ground where one of those signals is backfeeding through a warning light or ECU.
Passenger window doesn't work, driver's side works fine.
Ambient temperature upon startup reads -40F when it's a balmy 60F outside. After about 15-20 mins, it slowly climbs up till it reads in the 60's, but restarting the car causes this to go back down to -40 and start over again.
Brake disks are rusted all to hell and it feels about as hard and responive as a sponge... Need to rebuild brakes, can't expect much of cheap Chinese rotors sitting for 8 months now can we? :)
So let me ask you this - is there a way to pull OBD codes out through the tachometer without using the little display tool? Seems like I've done this before on the Mini, but can't find anything about it in either my Haynes or electrical manuals. I could have sworn though that there's a key-on, key-off, hold the trip odometer sequence that will pull up the p-codes. If anyone knows the trick to that, let me know!!
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