tell me your mini issues
Hello guys and gals. I’m a BMW technician but am moving to a newly constructed mini dealer in the next two months. They haven’t yet completed the service facility so here I wait.
I was wondering what issues you all have had relating to your vehicles through the course of your ownership? I want to be particularly sharp on the mini as it will be the only car I repair for years to come so please, let me have it… all of it. Relay stories or simple, “x happened at y miles, dealer performed z and it did/did not fix the problem.” Any complaints about issues that have been resolved on the forum here? Any general gripes? Any suggestions where to look for a “database” of technical issues. I will have access to the tech database when our dealer code clears in a few weeks but honestly, nothing is as worthwhile as the experiences of owners and enthusiasts. As soon as I am up and running at the new dealer, I will be happy to field questions regarding your vehicles. PM me, post here, let me hear all that has gone wrong with your vehicle, what repairs were attempted, any other info you feel pertinent. Mods, I am not not out for anything but info. I may post this elsewhere with your blessing. Thanks. -DOUG BMW master; ASE master automotive technician. |
reall, no one?
Does anyone know of a more active mini community that I can try?
|
Our '05 Mini Cooper S (6-sp) with 55kmiles has been acting strange with a rough idle when cold and a burbling and popping when you use the engine braking. There's also a lot of black residue at the exhaust tips. Any ideas?
|
rough idle
I have an 05 mini s with 81k stock and it has a random rough idle esp. on cool to cold mornings. I run 93 gas in it and it has a new air filter, new plugs, and new wires. still idles rough, no check engine light and when i punch it out on the high way it gets up and goes with no problem. Sounds like we have the same problem.
|
New mini owner!
Hello, I just recently bought a used 2006 Mini Cooper S with 20000 miles for $20000. Im wondering if that is a good deal? I think it is, but I regret getting it. I say this because it is a automatic with steptronic. I wanted a manual because it is considered better. My question is; Is it better? Im talking about speed wise. I want my car to be just as fast as the manual transmission Mini Cooper S. I wanted to know what is the speed difference between my auto steptronic tranny and manual tranny? I also wanted to know what can be done on a manual tranny that cant be done on a auot steptronic tranny, like heel toe, chirps, double clutch? If the steptronic is just as fast and just ass good as the manual Mini Cooper S then I would be satisfied cause I just got the car and only had it for a couple weeks.
|
CVT transmission i$$ues
I have had a standard 2002 Mini automatic transmission with 51,000 when purchased that the CVT transmission took a dive a 62,000 miles.... Given the cost of a new transmission at $8k.... has anyone considered converting to a manual transmission???? Need advice ASAP!!!!
|
I've heard of several convert but it sounds pretty pricey and more then the auto replacement as there is extensive wiring and control chages , these folks purchased new parts unsure if you could pick up a wrecked donor and do it cheaper
|
Tugging/jerking at slow speeds, 2005 auto
2005 MINI, automatic, 63,000 miles
When starting to drive, fwd or reverse, at slow speeds, around 10mph or less, the car tends to jerk or tug in a pulsing fashion. Any ideas? |
issues
I would have a service department look at it ASAP... I have seen posted that there was a needed computer update for the the Mini's with the CVT automatic transmissions which may help .....or like I went through at 65,000 miles.... my transmission belt broke and my transmission was trashed after owning the car for 4 months and $6,000 later for a rebuilt transmission...ouch and I talked with 4 dealers, two other repair shops and there were no other optiions!!!!
|
Anyone in Michigan that has CVT issues and looking for someone highly recommended fro repair work...check out
Bob's Transmission - www.bobstransmissionswmi.com 3220 Plainfield Ave NE, Grand Rapids - (616) 361-2375 They helped me through my transmission woes and are first rate people!!!! |
Check engine light codes, what do they mean?
Hello,
I have a 2003 Mini Cooper standard that has given me a check engine light. The codes that read out are P0303, P0313, P0303 pd, and P0313 pd. What do these mean? I'm guessing a fuel injector has gone bad, but which one? v/r Doug |
I know this post is old, but if you are still watching this thread please read my post. It would be of great help if you have any ideas.
J.J. |
Type-s mini cooper automatic transmission, wont start, I hear a click when i turn they key, im thinking its the starter solenoid.
|
Battery cable woes
I am having problems. I just bought this mini cooper S convertible. Luv it. But the positive cable design is poor. After driving several miles it gets really hot. It must not have a good connection at battery itself. It has been so bad that it wouldn't crank starter on next start until I wiggled the connection where the 2 cables come together at battery. I took that plastic retainer apart & cleaned connection and reinstalled. That worked for about 3 weeks. Now it is back. Should I try dielectric grease or what? Any ideas would be appreciated.:confused:
|
Converible sight issues
Anybody have a solution for the lack of review sight when the top is down?
|
Hot positive battery cable
Just thinking from a purely electrical point of view; if the positive cable is hot, is the negative cable JUST as hot?
Two things can cause the cable to heat: 1. Proximity to a heat source (such as the exhaust manifold), or; 2. Large amounts of current being drawn through the cable. The first situation should be fairly easy to detect visually. You can get some "header tape" at any decent automotive parts place which will reduce the radiated heat from exhaust components in the engine compartment. If the problem is high current draw, then the negative cable should be hot as well. The fact that this condition doesn't appear until after several miles of driving suggest that #1 is the more likely cause. Poor connections at the battery itself are an issue, and should be dealt with, but are not likely the cause of a hot cable. Poor connections make for high resistance, and lower current capability. If you have access to a clamp-on ammeter, you can check the amount of current being drawn from (or supplied to) the battery very easily. You might also have a battery that is going bad on you. That would contribute to the hard starting as well as a hot cable, with the alternator trying to revive an ailing battery. Auto Zone and Advance Auto Parts both have battery "load testers" that they will use( at no charge) to help you spot this condition. Here's the TOO often repeated sequence of events in this scenario: The battery is going out, so the alternator busts its chops trying to restore it until the diodes in the alternator fry, and you have to replace both the battery AND the alternator! Hope that helps. Bob
Originally Posted by Scooper
(Post 8638)
I am having problems. I just bought this mini cooper S convertible. Luv it. But the positive cable design is poor. After driving several miles it gets really hot. It must not have a good connection at battery itself. It has been so bad that it wouldn't crank starter on next start until I wiggled the connection where the 2 cables come together at battery. I took that plastic retainer apart & cleaned connection and reinstalled. That worked for about 3 weeks. Now it is back. Should I try dielectric grease or what? Any ideas would be appreciated.:confused:
|
Battery woes 2
Originally Posted by bmwbob
(Post 8694)
Just thinking from a purely electrical point of view; if the positive cable is hot, is the negative cable JUST as hot?
Two things can cause the cable to heat: 1. Proximity to a heat source (such as the exhaust manifold), or; 2. Large amounts of current being drawn through the cable. The first situation should be fairly easy to detect visually. You can get some "header tape" at any decent automotive parts place which will reduce the radiated heat from exhaust components in the engine compartment. If the problem is high current draw, then the negative cable should be hot as well. The fact that this condition doesn't appear until after several miles of driving suggest that #1 is the more likely cause. Poor connections at the battery itself are an issue, and should be dealt with, but are not likely the cause of a hot cable. Poor connections make for high resistance, and lower current capability. If you have access to a clamp-on ammeter, you can check the amount of current being drawn from (or supplied to) the battery very easily. You might also have a battery that is going bad on you. That would contribute to the hard starting as well as a hot cable, with the alternator trying to revive an ailing battery. Auto Zone and Advance Auto Parts both have battery "load testers" that they will use( at no charge) to help you spot this condition. Here's the TOO often repeated sequence of events in this scenario: The battery is going out, so the alternator busts its chops trying to restore it until the diodes in the alternator fry, and you have to replace both the battery AND the alternator! Hope that helps. Bob |
check eng light
Originally Posted by dhogan12
(Post 8395)
Hello,
I have a 2003 Mini Cooper standard that has given me a check engine light. The codes that read out are P0303, P0313, P0303 pd, and P0313 pd. What do these mean? I'm guessing a fuel injector has gone bad, but which one? v/r Doug This is misfire 101. I can't get into every possibility here from what info you have given. I don't know other codes that might help you get more specific to problem unfortunantly. I am learnin though. |
Originally Posted by Scooper
(Post 8697)
Thank you for the reply. I was beginning to think this forum was dead. I don't want to get into theory debate. I know for sure it is the cable. The battery is new. The cable is two pieces on a mini convertible. I don't know about a hard top. The positive is only getting hot there because of the resistance. It won't start because it loses connection. If I remove plastic retainer at positive connection at the battery the cables are loose. I need to know how to keep them together better. I understand resistance goes up & current goes down E=IxR. That is not the issue. Resistance goes up & heat is generated at the resistance. The battery is in the trunk on a convertible not near a heat source like a header.
Gotcha. Yeah, we had a Z3 with the battery in the trunk. Same setup. Resistance heating? No! You can't mean something like an electric stove burner, or soldering iron, can you? :-) We don't yet own a Mini, and to tell the truth, the more I learn about them, given the excellent results we've had from our Honda and Toyota products, the less likely I am to buy one. Our motor home gives me all of the expensive trips to "the man" anyone really needs! :-( It can get pretty addictive....being able to put 80 to over 120K miles on a vehicle with no more than normal belts, hoses fluids and filters (and, yes, tires!) as the "major concerns"! That said, my wife still thinks they're cute (same reason we owned the Z3, and the 911SC before that!) so, we may end up with one after all. On the battery connection thing: Couldn't you just whack the putzy connectors off the cable ends and put on some decent ring terminals to bolt solidly to the battery? I haven't had eyes on this setup yet, so I'm just shooting in the dark here. Bob |
2005 Mini Cooper - Jumping
Almost a year ago I bought my daughter a 2006 Mini Cooper automatic convertible. It has 65,000 miles on it and is really cute. The problem is that it tends to jerk/lurch when going slow, or when you first take off, which can be a problem trying to get out into traffic. I can't seem to get anyone to find out what the problem is and am thinking about getting a mustang instead.
Any ideas? There are no mini dealers around here btw (okay, so I probably wasn't making the most logical choice at the time!) Thanks! |
My EML light comes on as well as service now light and my 2006 MCS goes into "drive slow/protect engine mode" when the car has been idled for say 10 minutes or driven for say 20 minutes. The temperature gauge is mid scale and mechanic says the computer code is said to be the fuel-air sensor ($350 symptom non-solution?).
The car is salvage due to body wreckage so it seems not under california smog warranty for newer car smog systems. - note, I feel the radiator fan never comes on. |
trunk lock problem
I own a 2008 Mini Cooper S and the lock from my trunk its not working, I'm not able to lock it, it's loose, and the mini dealer have appoiments until next week... its something I cand o for fixing this?
|
ac condensate
I have a 2005 Cooper S. If it is humid outside the ac makes the front windshield fog up Have tried every setting withe air but nothing works. Any solution for this?
|
Oil Change on 2009 Mini
I just bought a 2009 Mini with 9,000 miles on it, which was sold new 10 months ago and I believe the oil is not due to be changed by the dealer, however I want to change it as I believe that is enough miles on any oil. I'm wondering if it takes 4 qts. and if the filter is in the front of the engine instead of the rear of the engine like my 2006 was. I can't find a shop manual like the 2006 had. Please advise :confused:
|
Ever had the windows an sunroom open when a car pulls up next to it? Mine does it sometimes quite weird! Is she alive?
|
Originally Posted by cooped up
(Post 9022)
I have a 2005 Cooper S. If it is humid outside the ac makes the front windshield fog up Have tried every setting withe air but nothing works. Any solution for this?
|
battery problem and carbon on inside of hood.
my 2009 mini wouldn't turn over. good thing it was home when it decided to die. Upon opening the hood noticed carbon residue on inside of hood. Any ideas on my the battery would go at 17 months and why the carbon is showing on inside of hood?
|
Thank you. I also raised the temp control to 68 and that helped.
|
Hi, I have a 2005 Mini cooper S automatic. it has started shifting rough on the down shift and laggish on the upshift. my mini mechanic says transmission passed computer test and it is a sealed transmission with lifetime oil, so he cannot service transmission. is this possible? and what could be wrong why it has started shifting very hard?
|
tranny can be bad or a computer issue
|
Hi guys...first post. My wife has a 2004 and today the ABS and Seat Belt warning lights came on and stayed on. I tried using a regular code scanner, but all it said was that it was an ABS issue. Any advise?
Ron |
mind boggller
my wifes 2006 mini cooper s
the radio will turn off and on all by itself. the key can be in it or parked with no keys. one thread said it was a ground wire. Why would it turn on without the ignition on. for that matter no keys in the ignition. |
Hey Doug,
My wife has a 2009 Clubman S with about 10,000 miles on it, and we have had several issues with the car so far... The check engine light came on and an evap component needed to be replaced, The car was hesitating and the engine seems to have a slight knock coming from the valve cover so we took it back in and they replaced the high pressure fuel pump. They said the engine noise is normal... Now it has a throttle response issue (delay). Is anyone else having these issues? The throttle response is not only a performance issue, but a also a safety issue!!! |
Originally Posted by dschmale
(Post 6245)
Hello guys and gals. I’m a BMW technician but am moving to a newly constructed mini dealer in the next two months. They haven’t yet completed the service facility so here I wait.
I was wondering what issues you all have had relating to your vehicles through the course of your ownership? I want to be particularly sharp on the mini as it will be the only car I repair for years to come so please, let me have it… all of it. Relay stories or simple, “x happened at y miles, dealer performed z and it did/did not fix the problem.” Any complaints about issues that have been resolved on the forum here? Any general gripes? Any suggestions where to look for a “database” of technical issues. I will have access to the tech database when our dealer code clears in a few weeks but honestly, nothing is as worthwhile as the experiences of owners and enthusiasts. As soon as I am up and running at the new dealer, I will be happy to field questions regarding your vehicles. PM me, post here, let me hear all that has gone wrong with your vehicle, what repairs were attempted, any other info you feel pertinent. Mods, I am not not out for anything but info. I may post this elsewhere with your blessing. Thanks. -DOUG BMW master; ASE master automotive technician. |
unleaded gas vs.premium in Cooper S ? problems
Can the wrong fuel unleaded instead of premium gas in a 2010 mini S with 2500 miles cause the fuel injector to be replaced, the car to stall, and to produce an awful order in the cabin when driving 60 or above?
|
crash damage
I would appreciate it if you took a look at the thread I just posted " Car Crash Damage please help" it has bunch of details explaining whats happened. Thanks MiniS02
|
Hi, I upgraded the exhaust, air filter, and chipped it, then I done a 15% pulley upgrade and every time I accelerate hard it feels like the engine jumps and then I get the traction control and service engine soon light come on. I have reset the lights and it continues do do this ever since the pulley upgrade, can anyone tell me how to rectify this, thanks Mark.
I have a R53 Cooper s |
i have a 2002 mini cooper sport...there is a water leak around the super charger. any ideas??? at first thought it was the thermostat, changed that and found it was leaking from above that. any ideas what i might be looking at?
thanks for any input i can get. |
Originally Posted by dschmale
(Post 6245)
Hello guys and gals. I’m a BMW technician but am moving to a newly constructed mini dealer in the next two months. They haven’t yet completed the service facility so here I wait.
I was wondering what issues you all have had relating to your vehicles through the course of your ownership? I want to be particularly sharp on the mini as it will be the only car I repair for years to come so please, let me have it… all of it. Relay stories or simple, “x happened at y miles, dealer performed z and it did/did not fix the problem.” Any complaints about issues that have been resolved on the forum here? Any general gripes? Any suggestions where to look for a “database” of technical issues. I will have access to the tech database when our dealer code clears in a few weeks but honestly, nothing is as worthwhile as the experiences of owners and enthusiasts. As soon as I am up and running at the new dealer, I will be happy to field questions regarding your vehicles. PM me, post here, let me hear all that has gone wrong with your vehicle, what repairs were attempted, any other info you feel pertinent. Mods, I am not not out for anything but info. I may post this elsewhere with your blessing. Thanks. -DOUG BMW master; ASE master automotive technician. |
06 Mini strained when driving over 50MPH
Hi
I have an 06 Mini w/25+K miles automatic and drive in bumper to bumper traffic most days however seems when I drive over 55MPH engine seems as though it is struggling or strained. :( Any ideas? |
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:39 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands