Hello I had a resent problem with my check engine light and it was a faulty gas cap. I have a 2008 convertable

 

I have a 2011 MINI Cooper S. I live in the state of Wisconsin and have experienced the tremendous "POP" upon car start up on very cold weather days as well. I have seen a few posts about this previously - has anyone discovered what the fix is?

 

I think there is an issue with my transmission. When traveling at approx. 50 mph my RPMs stay at around 2500. When traveling at 60 mph the RPMs are around 4000. At 70 mph they fall back down to around 2900-3100 RPM. IT seems as if the tranny works much harder around 60 mph than at other speeds. Maybe I'm just not understanding how a CVT tranny works but it seems to me like my RPM should be much lower at 60 mph than at 70. Any suggestions? (05 R50 with 105000 miles)

 

so i have not been able to get my mini cooper to start. I have an R50 and it will crank all day but will not turn over. We have tried changing the spark plugs and the starter. We have also checked all of the fuses and things of the sort. wondering if you have any ideas as to what the issue would be. Also the car is reconizing the key and everything else is working. I can smell that i am getting fuel and can hear it engaging.... I recently had issues with the radio shorting out, causing the car to do random things. Hopfully you can help.

MERRRRRRR!

 

So,
Fuel pump , injectors and starter is ok and turning the engine. Battery is good?

Can you tell if you are getting spark. The Coils can fail or develop rust at the connections between the coil and the spark plug wires. Also check the interior connection of the park plug wire to the coil for rust. Clean them out. Check for rodents that like to chew on them.


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/12137510738/




Thanks and let me know.

ECS Tuning

 

i am not getting any spark the battery was good untill we kept trying to turn the car on and then it started to die. Since then we have taken the battery and got it charged. i had it towed to a shop yesterday and they are not really making any progress either.i can hear the fuel pump starting up and he also said that he smelt the fule so im guessing that that is good.

 

Yes,

I would check for spark, if the pump is good and you are getting fuel up into the cylinder, then I would look at the coil pack, plug wires, and plugs. If no spark from all 4 plugs look at the connections or the coil pack itself. Also make sure someone did not unplug the coil pack wire harness plug and did not clip it back correctly. It plugs into the coil on the left hand side on the coil pack.





R50 R52 R53 Spark plug wire sets: at the set


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/12127513032/





Thanks and let me know how it goes. What year R50 do you have?

 

I've a 07 MCS and the clutch and transmission fall apart. I've an extended warranty and nothing is covered. This car is the worse car I've ever had. The warranty (worry-ty) is absolutely worthless and a bad scam.

 

I have a 2003 Mini non- turbo with an automatic transmission. It has 104,000 miles. I have uneven acceleration especially at low speeds. It surges. The engine doesn't miss or stall. What could be my problem? I know that there is an electronic transmisson control module, and I think there is an electronic accelerator control module as well. Could the problem be one of these modules? If so, how do I trouble shoot, and can I do the repair myself?

 

Hello,

I'm new to this forum and I'm having issues with my mini. I own a 2005 mini cooper S 6-speed, it has 143,000 miles. I bought it last August and it needed a lot of brake work because the dealership put dot 3 brake fluid in the system and it ate the seals up and ruined the calipers. I had to replace all four calipers, all four rotors, pads, master cylinder, and emergency brake cables. I bought used brake calipers that had low mileage on them, the front two were off a 2006 mini cooper and were a direct fit. The rear calipers were off of a 2008 mini cooper, I had to cut some of the frame to get the emergency brake cables, and brake lines to clear but other than that they were a direct fit and sit exactly where they're suppose to be/function like they're suppose to. I replaced the rear struts as well. I also replaced all four wheel bearings because it sounded like it had a lot of bearing noise...still makes a lot of noise so it wasn't the wheel bearings.

Now here are my previous problems I'm having...

1.) The ABS light and the tire pressure light are on in the dash and they won't go away.
I've tried resetting the tire pressure with the button on the center console and the lights will go away for a short time and come back on together...How do you fix this problem?

2.) My passenger side airbag will not activate...
The light on the headliner which is in front of the sunroof says the airbag is "off", which makes sense because no one is sitting there. But when someone does sit there it will not activate (tried all kinds of weights 150lbs+). Also there is a red airbag light on in the dash. What's the problem with this and how do I fix it?

3.) Like I said previously there is a lot of noise coming from the front end, it sounds like bearings going out (which I changed all four bearing with Timkin bearings).
It will continue to get more noisy the faster I drive, 55+ mph it is extremely noisy...Could this be the transmission bearings???

4.) When I'm in neutral and let the clutch out the gearbox in the transmission is really noisy.
I thought it was noisy lifters at first but I realized when I push the clutch in the noise goes away, so it has something to do with the transmission. Anyone???

5.) I've noticed that the motor will stumble at idle sometimes, it'll start running really rough at idle spontaneously..what's the deal with this?

6.) The motor burns oil, I've noticed this when I start it up it'll blow blue smoke, but only when I start it.
The exhaust tips have a lot of black residue on them. The motor was knocking slightly at idle so I changed the oil, the oil that was in it was realllly bad, I put full synthetic oil in it and 4 quarts of Lucas Oil! It still burns oil though. Is it the rings? Or does it need a valve job? Or does it need to be totally rebuilt soon?

7.) The emergency brake handle (parking brake) is really sloppy.
I put new emergency brake cables on it already, how do I adjust the handle so it'll start grabbing on 2-3 clicks? Right now it takes like 10 clicks for it to even grab a little...

8.) The brakes will not stay solid...
I've done a complete brake job on this car. I changed everything! Including the master cylinder (because it was not holding pressure). I bleed the brakes out and the pedal is solid, then when I drive it for about a week I'll notice that the pedal is getting soft so I'll rebleed the brakes (I've gone through this process about 8 times now) I've checked all the lines, master cylinder, and ABS. Nothing is leaking so it has to be drawing in air somewhere??? Or is it something else???

I paid $9500 for this car (KBB says it's worth $8300 excellent condition....). I've put over $3000 and countless hours of work in it since I've bought it. Plus it still has all these problems that I've mentioned above...Is it even worth putting more time and money in it? Also it will be needing a new clutch soon...the previous owner beat the hell out of the car.. Any suggestions and how to solve these problems would be extremely helpful.

Thank you